Fashion Theory

This thoroughly revised and updated edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader brings together and presents a wide range of essays on fashion theory that will engage and inform both the general reader and the specialist student of fashion.

Autorentext

Malcolm Barnard is Senior Lecturer in Visual Culture at Loughborough University, UK.

Klappentext

This thoroughly revised and updated edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader brings together and presents a wide range of essays on fashion theory that will engage and inform both the general reader and the specialist student of fashion. From apparently simple and accessible theories concerning what fashion is to seemingly more difficult or challenging theories concerning globalisation and new media, this collection contextualises different theoretical approaches to identify, analyse and explain the remarkable diversity, complexity and beauty of what we understand and experience every day as fashion and clothing. This second edition contains entirely new sections on fashion and sustainability, fashion and globalisation, fashion and digital/social media and fashion and the body/prosthesis. It also contains updated and revised sections on fashion, identity and difference, and on fashion and consumption and fashion as communication. More specifically, the section on identity and difference has been updated to include contemporary theoretical debates surrounding Islam and fashion, and LGBT+ communities and fashion and the section on consumption now includes theories of 'prosumption'. Each section has a specialist and dedicated Editor's Introduction which provides essential conceptual background, theoretical contextualisation and critical summaries of the readings in each section. Bringing together the most influential and ground breaking writers on fashion and exposing the ideas and theories behind what they say, this unique collection of extracts and essays brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we all think and say about fashion. This second edition of Fashion Theory: A Reader is a timeless and invaluable resource for both the general reader and undergraduate students across a range of disciplines including sociology, cultural studies and fashion studies.

Inhalt

Introduction

PART 1: Fashion and Fashion Theories

Introduction

1. Elizabeth Wilson

Explaining it Away

2. Gilles Lipovetsky

The Empire of Fashion: Introduction

3. Barbara Vinken

The Fashion Zeitgeist

4. Pierre Bourdieu

Haute Couture and Haute Culture

PART 2: What Fashion Is and Is Not

Introduction

5. Edward Sapir

Fashion

6. Nancy Troy

Fashion as Art

7. Fred Davis

Antifashion: The Vicissitudes of Negation

8. Georg Simmel

The Philosophy of Fashion

9. Ted Polhemus and Lynn Procter

Fashion and Antifashion

PART 3: Fashion and (the) Image

Introduction

10. Roland Barthes

The Fashion System: Fashion Photography

11. Paul Jobling

Going Beyond The Fashion System

12. Erica Lennard

Doing Fashion Photographs

13. Tamsin Blanchard

Fashion and Graphics: Introduction

PART 4: Sustainable Fashion

Introduction

14. Marie-Cécile Cervellon and Lindsey Carey

Consumers' Perceptions of 'Green''

15. Kate Fletcher

Fashion, Needs and Consumption

16. Alison Gwilt

Fashion and Sustainability: Repairing the Clothes We Wear

PART 5: Fashion as Communication

Introduction

17. Umberto Eco

Social Life as a Sign System

18. Roland Barthes

The Analysis of the Rhetorical System

19. Fred Davis

Do Clothes Speak? What Makes them Fashion?

20. Colin Campbell

When the Meaning is not a Message: A Critique of the Consumption as Communication Thesis

21. Malcolm Barnard

Fashion as Communication Revisited

PART 6: Fashion: Identity and Difference

Introduction

Gender

22. Tim Edwards

Express Yourself: The Politics of Dressing Up

23. Lee Wright

Objectifying Gender: The Stiletto Heel

24. Joanne Entwistle

Power Dressing and The Construction of the Career Woman

LGBT+

25. Annamari Vänskä

From Gay to Queer - Or, Wasn't Fashion Always Already A Very Queer Thing?

26. Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas

Lesbian Style: From Mannish Women to Lipstick Dykes

Social Class

27. Angela Partington

Popular Fashion and Working-Class Affluence

28. Herbert Blumer

Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection

Ethnicity and Race

29. Emil Wilbekin

Great Aspirations: Hip Hop and Fashion Dress for Excess and Success

30. Reina Lewis

Muslim Fashion: Taste and Distinction; The Politics of Style

31. Emma Tarlo

Visibly Muslim: Islamic Fashion Scape

32. Carol Tulloch

You Should Understand, It's a Freedom Thing: The Stoned Cherrie - Steve Biko T-Shirt

PART 7: Fashion, Clothes and The Body

Introduction

33. Joanne Entwistle

Addressing the Body

34. Ingun Grimstad Klepp & Mari Rysst

Deviant Bodies and Suitable Clothes

35. Laini Burton & Jana Melkumova-Reynolds

'My Leg is a Giant Stiletto Heel': Fashioning the Prosthetised Body

36. Malcolm Barnard

Fashion, Clothes and The Body

PART 8: Fashion: Production, Consumption, Prosumption

Introduction

37. Marco Pedroni

The Crossroad between Production and Consumption

38. Tim Dant

Consuming or Living with Things? Wearing it Out

39. Tommy Tse and Ling Tung Tsang

Reconceptualising Prosumption

40. Kate Fletcher

Attentiveness, Materials, and Their Use

41. Daniel Miller

The Little Black Dress is the Solution, but what is the Problem?"

PART 9: Modern Fashion

Introduction

42. Elizabeth Wilson

Adorned in Dreams: Introduction

43. Kurt Back

Modernism and Fashion

44. Richard Sennett

Public Roles/Personality in Public

45. Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas

Walter Benjamin: Fashion, Modernity and the City Street

PART 10: Post-modern Fashion

Introduction

46. Jean Baudrillard

The Ideological Genesis of Needs/Fetishism and Ideology

47. Jean Baudrillard

Fashion, or the Enchanting Spectacle of the Code

48. Kim Sawchuk

A Tale of Inscription: Fashion Statements

49. Alison Gill

Deconstruction Fashion

PART 11: Digital/New Media and Fashion

Introduction

50. Sandra Lee Bartky

Narcissism, Femininity and Alienation

51. Agnès Rocamora

Personal Fashion Blogs

52. Katrin Tiidenberg

Bringing Sexy Back: Reclaiming the Body Aesthetic via Self-Shooting

53. Agnès Rocamora

Mediatization and Digital Media in the Field of Fashion

PART 12: Global and Transnational Fashion

Introduction

54. Malcolm Barnard

Globalization and Colonialism

55. Jan Brand and Jose Teunissen

From Global Fashion/Local Tradition

56. Ian Skoggard,

Transnational Commodity Flows and the Global Phenomenon of the Brand

57. Olga Gurova

Body, gender and discourse on fashion in Soviet Russia in the 1950s and 1960s

58. Lise Skov

Hong Kong Fashion Designers as Cultural Intermediaries